MSC Magnifica - The Last Cruise Home

MSC Magnifica World Cruise Image Credit: MSC Cruise

MSC Cruise Line’s MSC Magnifica embarked on her World Cruise just prior to the start of the Pandemic. She was one of the the last three ships at sea and returned - virus free- in April 2020. Here is her story.

For passengers embarking on the first world cruise of MSC Magnifica, the excitement would have been palpable as guests waited to check in and to board in Genoa on 5th January 2020. Christmas and New Year were all but forgotten replaced with thoughts of new horizons and glorious winter sun on a trip of a lifetime.

The Cruise Begins

MSC Embarkation - Start of the Fun Image Credit: MSC Cruises

On checking in, passengers would have been asked to sign the usual perfunctory pre-boarding health questionnaire - (“have you had, or been in contact with, colds, coughs, high temperatures or tummy problems”) - and they might possibly have made a nervous quip, whilst secretly wondering whether the sniffle or hangover they had a fortnight ago counted.

Following the obligatory and first-of-many photographs, against a backdrop of their beautiful ship, passengers would have headed up the gangway, hearts a-flutter with anticipation. They would have been wondering whether their cabin was ready, where to eat, and what cocktail to sample first as they were welcomed into the heart of what would be their home for the foreseeable future.

In the capable hands of Captain Robert Leotta, a man with 36 years of seafaring experience, MSC Magnifica set sail on her 119 day journey around the globe. The three-month itinerary was to include 40 ports of call in 23 different countries, across 5 continents. Of the 1760 passengers onboard this floating hotel, most were from Italy, Spain, France and Germany, and they would have been in high spirits as they enjoyed their first sail away from the pool deck, perhaps braving the winter weather at the Il Bar Del Sole up on deck 16, or sitting on their sheltered cabin balcony with a glass of fizz.

If any had glanced at the news or social media whilst they unpacked their glamorous cruise wear, they may have seen a brief item on the emergence of a new, yet unnamed pneumonia far away in China, in a place called Wuhan. However, most would be checking the Daily Program to find out where to grab a snack, how to buy a drinks package, or what their first evening at sea had in store.

In the coming days passengers would enjoy some European sightseeing - maybe the Basilique Notre-Dame de la Garde in Marseille; a HOHO Bus tour in Barcelona taking in stunning views of the Sagrada Familia and Las Ramblas; riding the iconic Lisbon Tram; and then in Madeira taking the cable car and riding the wooden toboggan over the cobbled streets of Monte, with no thoughts of viruses or impending pandemics. Ignorance is indeed bliss!

After leaving Europe, they headed to San Vincente in the Cape Verde Islands, totally unaware that in Asia an isolated case of the new virus had been reported in Thailand whilst in China, where it originated, the World Health Organisation (WHO) had identified a further 41 cases.

MSC Magnifica - Cruising South America

The sun was shining as they sailed transatlantic, enjoying all that the beautiful MSC Magnifica had to offer, arriving in Salvador, Brazil on 19th January and then on to colourful Rio de Janeiro. Whilst they explored this vibrant city and looked in awe at the statue of Christ the Redeemer, followed perhaps by a delicious Caipirinha on the infamous Coco Cabana beach, the silent, nameless virus was insidiously infecting more Asian countries including Japan, Hong Kong and Macau. It had even skipped undetected across the world to the USA.

Whilst passengers compared their sightseeing experiences over a sumptuous dinner in the magnificent Quattro Venti or L’Edera Restaurants they were, in general, unaware of events being played out across the other side of the world. Captain Leotta, however, had his finger on the pulse and had begun to monitor the evolving situation.

MSC Magnifica T32 Disco Image Credit: MSC Cruises

MSC Magnifica continued her cruise around the coasts of South America and whilst passengers explored Eva Peron’s infamous home in Buenos Aires in late January, the virus had arrived in Singapore and Vietnam. As passengers danced the night away in the T32 Disco, or had a casual evening of bowling in Magnifica’s authentic bowling alley, no-one could ever have imagined what lay in store for them in the not-so-distant future. They couldn’t know that the USA had already banned flights to China whilst Russia had closed its adjoining border.

After calling at Montevideo, they visited Ushuaia (meaning end of the world), the gateway to Antarctica cruising and tours to nearby Isla Yécapasela, known as “Penguin Island”. Little could they have imagined that it really was soon to be the end of the world as they knew it. As they explored Puerto Montt, southern Chile’s Lake District, known as a gateway to the Andes mountains and the Patagonian fjords, over in Japan the newly named Coronavirus had boarded a cruise ship infecting 20 passengers resulting in Diamond Princess being quarantined. This signified the beginning of the end for cruising for the time being, with cruise ships reputations now tarnished with an undeserved stigma.

Things were starting to hot up, both literally and figuratively, as MSC Magnifica left Chile bound for the idyllic white sand beaches of Polynesia via Easter Island with its iconic Moai figures on mysterious megalithic platforms. These statues were said to honour the dead - a poignant fact given that the first virus-related deaths were being reported across the other side of the world.

First Plans Impacted

Cook Islands Image Credit: https://unsplash.com/@cburgdorfer

As MSC Magnifica sailed The Pitcairn Islands, and overnighted in Papeete, Tahiti, passengers were enjoying the delights of French Polynesia and also the many facilities onboard. Their next ports of call were to be in the Cook Islands, In the South Pacific, named after the British navigator Captain Cook who landed there in the eighteenth century. The tropical itinerary included stops in Rarotonga, the largest of the islands and Aitutaki, famed for it’s beautiful turquoise lagoon. Whilst they enjoyed the scenic cruising in tropical sunshine, guests were playing deck games, splashing around at pool parties and tucking into alfresco bbqs in blissful ignorance. Captain Leotta, however, was receiving some disturbing updates. The Islanders had heard the news about the stricken Diamond Princess in Japan and were becoming nervous. So much so that even whilst they relied heavily on cruise-industry revenue, they pleaded with the Government of The Cook Islands to ban cruise ships from docking in Aitutaki. Reluctantly, their request was granted and Captain Leotta was told to change Magnifica’s heading instead to Rarotonga. No doubt some passengers were disappointed, but worse things happen at sea and so they made the most of all the largest of The Cook Islands had to offer, hiking the beaches and snorkelling in the clear, warm turquoise sea.

As they cruised towards New Zealand passengers would have toasted crossing the International Date Line, marvelling at the lost day or even possibly bemoaning the fact. Regardless, they were still ahead of the virus sweeping the world and remained infection-free onboard.

MSC Magnifica in Auckland Image Credit: MSC Cruise

MSC Magnifica arrived in Aukland, New Zealand on 7 March - Day 63 of their World voyage. There had only been 5 reported cases in the country at this point and so there were no restrictions. Guests were able to disembark and enjoy some fabulous shore excursions - maybe a visit to Waitomo Glow Worm Caves, or a harbour jet boat tour.

Their Kiwi sojourn continued with stops in Tauranga, Napier and Wellington before scenic cruising in Milford Sound. MSC Magnifica had so far out run the virus. However, by the time they reached Hobart, Tasmania it had overtaken them. It was 14 March, and Tasmania had 6 confirmed cases, and three days earlier the World Health Organisation (WHO) had classified the virus as a pandemic.

Whilst the ship was given permission to dock in Hobart, Captain Leotta was aware of the worsening situation, and realised that passengers might become infected if they went ashore. So he made the difficult decision to instruct guests to stay onboard, as he set a course for Sydney. The awful news coming in from around the world brought with it the awful realisation that there was no port to weather this particular storm. There was nowhere left that was a safe haven from the pandemic.

MSC Magnifica - Change of Itinerary

Sydney Harbour Image Creot: Photo by Jamie Davies on Unsplash

By the time MSC Magnifica reached Sydney, her fate was sealed, and Captain Leotta dropped the bombshell that the world cruise was terminated and that they would instead be heading home. Guests were given the option of disembarking in Australia’s New South Wales - in Sydney and Melbourne - under strict protocols - to allow them to make their own way home. Those remaining were advised that the homeward journey of 12,000 miles, would only be punctuated by stops for refuelling and restocking and that it would would take five weeks. It is worth mentioning here that the ship remained virus free, and was possibly safer than ashore, so only a hundred of so passengers chose to disembark. After the initial shock and disappointment, guests were very supportive of the Captain’s decision.

The next port of call had been intended to be the beautiful Isle of Pines in New Caledonia in the South Pacific, and then on up to Queensland and on to Darwin at Australia’s Top End. Instead, the ship headed south towards Freemantle in Western Australia, with the intention of stopping purely to refuel and resupply. However, one of the requirements prior to docking in any port is for the Captain to supply assurances that the ship has no contagious diseased onboard. Evidence is provided in the form of reports from the onboard Medical Centre. MSC Magnifica complied with this and her records showed that in the previous fortnight approximately 250 people had visited the medical centre mainly routine visits for painkillers, or dressings. Most importantly, there was no evidence of Covid-19 on board.

So we can only imagine how horrified Captain Leotta felt as he watched an Australian news conference on TV in his cabin, in which the premier of Western Australia, Mark McGowan declared erroneously that more than 250 passengers on MSC Magnifica had reported upper respiratory illnesses. Furthermore, Mr McGowan referred to an outbreak in Sydney, saying that he would not allow that to happen in Western Australia. He also said that passengers and crew would not be allowed to “wander the streets”. It is unknown where this unsubstantiated information originated, but denials from MSC were dismissed and the ship became a pariah. Upon arrival in Freemantle the ship was greeted by the police, the Australian border force and even protesters, to ensure no-one disembarked. MSC Magnifica was making TV headlines around the world and had become infamous, but for totally the wrong reasons, and totally unjustifiably.

MSC Magnifica finally Homeward Bound

MSC Magnifica Aerial View at Sea Image Credit: MSC Cruise

Once refuelled and restocked, MSC Magnifica and her virus-free guests and crew, departed for their epic journey home. Stopping only to take on further supplies and fuel enroute, the ship continued homeward bound. Most guests continued to enjoy their cruise, making the most of endless seadays and glorious sunshine. Perhaps there were no ports of call, but where else in the World could they continue to mingle safely, swim, take in a show, or go dancing or enjoy a meal in a restaurant and a drink in a bar? All the time remaining safe from the deadly pandemic sweeping the World.

Five weeks and many thousands of miles later, MSC Magnifica arrived home in Genoa on 20 April 2020, one of the three last cruise ships still at sea (the other two being the Pacific Princess in Los Angeles, and the Costa Deliziosa in Barcelona) all of which docked the same day.

I imagine many thoughts were going through their minds as guests finally disembarked, relief at being home obviously, but also no doubt apprehension about returning to a world ashore where this terrible virus was now rife. I hope all stayed safe after returning home.

Hopefully cruising will return in the future, and we can all enjoy our holidays at sea once more, but hopefully without the drama.