8 Days in Svalbard with HX Hurtigruten Expeditions
My Arctic Expedition Diary
Join me on my 8-day Arctic adventure with HX Hurtigruten Expeditions aboard MS Spitsbergen. From polar bears and glaciers to the legendary Polar Plunge, discover what it’s really like to cruise Svalbard under the midnight sun.
Iceberg in Northwest Spitsbergen National Park. Photo taken from zodiac by Kathy Tayor©️
Cruising Beyond the Ordinary
When you picture a cruise, you probably imagine pool decks, theatre shows, cocktails in hand and a new city to explore every day. My Arctic adventure with HX Hurtigruten Expeditions could not have been more different - and that’s exactly what made it unforgettable.
In May I joined six fellow journalists on the eight-day “Svalbard in Spring - The Return of the Sun” itinerary aboard MS Spitsbergen.
After a night in Longyearbyen (the world’s northernmost town and an adventure in itself, we boarded, checked into our cabins, and were promptly kitted out with our Arctic essentials: heavy-duty muck boots and HX’s complimentary waterproof jacket.
The boots aren’t a fashion statement but an absolute necessity - biosecurity rules mean every landing is a “wet landing” and the boots stop you from contaminating Svalbard’s pristine environment.
HX Hurtigruten Expedition’s MS Spitsbergen in Svalbard
As we pulled away from the dock, dinner was served buffet-style and then I wandered up on deck. It was almost midnight, yet the sun was still high, painting the mountains in a soft golden glow. Cabins are fitted with blackout blinds, but if you’re planning your own trip, bring an eye mask. Trust me – the midnight sun does not play.
Day by Day Arctic Expedition Diary
Day 1 - Hornsund & our First Polar Bear Sighting
Not my polar bear, but similar. My image was t giny
Our adventure began in Hornsund, one of Svalbard’s southern fjords. The plan was to land at Burgerbukta, but the Arctic had other ideas. A polar bear was spotted on shore, which meant we stayed safely on board - the golden rule here is that bears always have right of way. Even without setting foot on land, it was a thrilling reminder that this is real wilderness.
We were able to follow the bear’s progress via the ship’s camera and were totally invested in the drama as we watched it tracking its prey - an unknowing seal on the beach
Here’s an interesting polar bear fact:
Polar bears possess an extremely powerful sense of smell, using it to locate prey (like this poor seal) even when they are 20 miles (32 km) away or hidden under ice and snow. This acute sense of smell is vital for hunting in the Arctic, allowing them to find seals' breathing holes in the ice from almost a mile away.
You’ll be pleased to learn that in this case, the seal was unharmed.
Day 2 - Hiking From Bear Cabin to Calypsobyen
Historic Beluba Whaling hut on beach in Bamsebu, Svalbard. Photo: Kathy Taylor, ©️
The morning took us to Bamsebu, better known as the “Bear Cabin” and featured in the book “Hearts in the Ice” by Hilde Fålun Strøm and Sunniva Sorby.
Once used by trappers, it’s now a preserved hut that whispers stories of survival in a place where winter lasts eight months.
An exhilarating polar hike. Photo Credit: Lisa Young, Potographer
From here, we set off on an 8km hike across Pitnerrodden. As someone more familiar with a sofa than trekking poles, I’ll admit I was nervous. But the Arctic scenery - snow-capped ridges, endless skies, silence broken only by crunching boots - spurred me on. By the end, I was glowing with pride (tempered by slightly aching legs).
In the afternoon we headed to Calypsobyen, a ghostly old mining settlement. Here, wooden structures still stand against the wind, reminders of Svalbard’s industrial past.
We arrived by Zodiac (fast becoming my favourite way to travel - nothing like skimming across icy water in a small boat). Some hiked, some strolled, but we all came back ready for cocktails (yes, even on an expedition ship), and dinner.
An exciting Bridge visit on MS Spitsbergen.
That evening we visited the bridge and met Captain Marius Fjellberg, one of the youngest captains in HX’s fleet, whose calm presence set the tone for our week.
Day 3 – Magdalenefjord, Whaling History & The Polar Plunge
The evidence of my successful polar plunge.
Breakfast was a nervous affair - today was Polar Plunge day. Before that, though, we visited Magdalenefjord, where the Grave Peninsula holds one of the largest burial grounds in Svalbard. Walking among blubber ovens and simple wooden markers, it was sobering to reflect on the whalers who lived - and often died - in these unforgiving conditions. I am finding the history of Svalbard as exciting as the physical experience itself.
Author entering the Arctic to carry out a polar plunge (shoulders must be submerged)
By the afternoon we were at Gravneset. A snowy hike (complete with a bum-slide back down a slope) was our warm-up before stripping off our layers and running, screaming, into the Arctic Ocean. Getting out of muck boots while your hands are shaking is no easy task, and I was last in - channelling Ursula from The Little Mermaid rather than the sea goddess I intended. But I did it (and have photographic evidence plus a certificate to prove it!), and the surge of adrenaline left me feeling euphoric. I’m still ridiculously proud.
Day 4 – Blizzards and the Ice Edge at 80° North
The deckf MS Spitsbergen covered in virgin snow during blizzard
The day began with a blizzard, and I couldn’t resist running outside before the pristine snow was cleared from the decks. Later, we cruised north to the sea ice edge, crossing the legendary 80° parallel (another certificate!). This was one of my highlights – watching the ship nose up to the ice, the horizon stretching white and endless. No landings, just silence, drifting floes, and the knowledge that we’d reached one of the planet’s last true frontiers.
The phase “the silence was deafening” must have originated here!
Day 5 – Smeerenburgfjord, “Blubber Town” and Zodiac Cruising
Today we went out on the Zodiac and landed at Smeerenburg, once the bustling “Blubber Town,” a Dutch whaling base in the 1600s. Nothing remains of the town but raised mounds and memories, yet imagining thousands of men working in this icy landscape was staggering.
Anchored in Smeerenburgfjord. Photo shows kayaks alongside (taken from Zodiac)
In the afternoon we split into groups: some kayaked through mirror-still waters, while others (myself included) explored Bjørnfjorden by Zodiac. Drifting between sculpted chunks of sea ice, it felt like we’d slipped into another world.
Day 6 – Ny-Ålesund Science Hub & Lilliehöökbreen Glacier
Ny-Ålesund, building with bust of Norwegian explorer Ronald Amundsen
Our final full day began in Ny-Ålesund, a former coal mining town turned scientific outpost. With stations from more than 10 countries, it’s a hub of international Arctic research. Preserved wooden buildings sit alongside laboratories, and signs warn visitors not to walk beyond the town boundary without a rifle - polar bears are never far away.
We listened to tales of the explorers that discovered the area and beyond to the North Pole - stories worthy of a blockbuster movie or two.
As we left, a pod of beluga whales appeared alongside the ship, a magical farewell gift. Later that evening, we cruised by the glacier Lilliehöökbreen, its vast wall of ice cracking and calving before us. A memorable moment was hitching ourselves to another zodiac to enjoy hot chocolate bobbing in the bay, followed by waffles served back on deck – a perfectly sweet ending to the week.
Day 7 – Farewell to Svalbard
Farewell to the Arctic
Although you can add a post-voyage stay (which I would highly recommend), for us our adventure had come to an end and it was straight to the airport for us.
From Longyearbyen to Oslo and on to London, I replayed the highlights in my head: spotting polar bears, crossing the ice edge, plunging into freezing seas, and wandering through ghost towns of trappers and miners.
What Makes an Arctic Cruise Special
The bottom line is, Svalbard in spring is not a holiday; it’s an expedition. It will test you, humble you, and reward you in ways you can’t imagine. It’s unpredictable yet life-affirming.
This wasn’t cruising as I knew it. There were no Broadway-style shows, no poolside loungers, no shopping arcades. Instead, there were wildlife encounters, connection with nature in the raw and moments of pure wonder.
Would I do it again? Absolutely. In a heartbeat.
Practical Tips for Your Own Arctic Expedition
Just some of my kit for this expedition
Here’s what you need to know:
Pack an eye mask – midnight sun laughs at blackout blinds.
Layers, layers, layers – and make sure your jacket fits over all of them.
Trust the muck boots. They’re lifesavers.
Expect the unexpected – in Svalbard, wildlife dictates the plan.
Arctic Expedition Planning Resources
For maps and destination inspiration visit my website’s Expedition Section.
Also check out my Introduction to Expedition Cruising and my Expedition Packing Guide
You can find a similar itinerary with HX Hurtigruten Expeditions for 2026 here: Svalbard in Spring.