A Tourist Guide to Livorno - Tuscany’s Underrated Gem
Livorno - Tuscany’s Underrated Coastal Gem
Livorno, Italy
When you think of Tuscany, rolling vineyards, Florence’s Renaissance beauty, and Pisa’s iconic Leaning Tower likely come to mind. But tucked along the region’s western coastline is Livorno, a city that many travellers overlook. Known for its seafood, stunning seaside views, and charming canals, Livorno is more than just a gateway to other Tuscan destinations - it’s a destination in its own right. Situated on the Mar Ligure, 20 kilometres from Pisa and 100 kilometres from Florence, Livorno is an undiscovered delight.
I must admit it took me several visits before I looked beyond the containers and cranes of the cruise port and ventured into the city. I was surprised and delighted in equal measure as I discovered what this unpolished Tuscan jewel had to offer.
A City Shaped by the Sea
Livorno from the Sea
Livorno has always been a city of travellers, merchants, and seafarers. Built by the powerful Medici family as a free port in the 16th century, it became a melting pot of cultures, cuisines, and architectural styles. Today, you can still see traces of its rich history in its Venezia Nuova district, where canals and bridges create a mini-Venice feel, and in the imposing Fortezza Vecchia, which has guarded the harbour for centuries.
Morning in Livorno: Markets & Canals
Start your day like a true Livornese—with a strong espresso and a budino di riso, a sweet rice pastry, at a local café. Then, head to the Mercato Centrale, a lively indoor market bursting with fresh seafood, cheeses, and the city’s famous torta di ceci (a crispy chickpea pancake that locals eat stuffed into focaccia).
After soaking up the market atmosphere, take a bateaux-style boat tour through Venezia Nuova’s canals. This part of the city feels like stepping back in time, with pastel-coloured buildings reflecting in the water and tiny bridges arching overhead.
Enjoy a Cultural Caffeine Fix: Coffee,History & Art
The Bottini dell’Olio is a historic building in Livorno, originally used as an oil warehouse in the 18th century. It has since been transformed into a cultural space, housing the Civic Museum of Livorno and the city’s Public Library.
Inside the complex, you’ll find a small hip café where you can enjoy an inexpensive yet delicious coffee in a relaxed setting lounging on a leather sofa, surrounded by art, including a nod to Banksy. It’s a great place to take a break while exploring the museum or browsing the library’s collection.
Afternoon by the Sea
No visit to Livorno is complete without a stroll along the stunning Terrazza Mascagni, a vast chequered promenade that seems to stretch endlessly towards the horizon. This is the perfect place to take in the salty sea air and admire the Ligurian coastline.
Feeling hungry? Livorno’s signature dish is Cacciucco, a rich, garlicky seafood stew brimming with fish, shellfish, and crusty bread. The best places to try it include Trattoria L’Ancora and La Barrocciaia, where the recipes have been perfected over generations.
Sunset & Evening Vibes
As the day winds down, join the locals for an aperitivo—a spritz or a glass of local Vermentino wine—at a waterfront bar. For a true Livornese experience, try a Ponce Livornese, a potent mix of coffee, rum, and sugar that has fuelled sailors and dockworkers for centuries.
Dinner with a sea view is a must. Head to Ristorante Il Romito, perched along the coastal road, where you can watch the sun dip below the horizon while savouring freshly grilled fish.
Beyond Livorno: Hidden Gems & Day Trips
If you have extra time, Livorno is the perfect base for exploring more of Tuscany’s coast. Take a short train ride to Pisa (around an hour), and of course Florence is also accessible (about 1.5 hours by train). You could venture to the wine region of Bolgheri, or discover the hidden Cala del Leone, a secluded beach perfect for a refreshing swim.
Livorno is not a beach resort, but if you are yearning for a dip here are a couple of options:
Closest Beach: Spiaggia della Vela (6 km, 15 min by taxi, free entry) – A sandy beach with clear waters, sunbeds (€10 per day).
Best Beach: Castiglioncello (20 km, 40 min train, €6 return) – Crystal-clear waters, beach bars, and sunbeds (€15 per day).
Why Livorno Deserves a Spot on Your Itinerary
Livorno may not have the grand museums of Florence or the famous landmarks of Pisa, but what it does have is authenticity. It’s a city that feels lived in, where the seafood is fresh, the history is tangible, and the sunsets are unforgettable. So next time you arrive on a ship, or holiday in Tuscany, don’t just pass through—stay, explore, and let Livorno surprise you.
LIVORNO FAST FACTS
Livorno Infographic
What’s your own favourite “undiscovered” gem? Let me know in comments below.